How to use this trainer (and what each panel is telling you)

The three modes, what equilibrium frequency, EV, MDF and SPR each answer, and a concrete first-week routine that turns grades into practice.

This page is about the product, not about poker theory. It takes about ten minutes to read and it will save you the first month of using the trainer wrong — which usually means watching the result of a hand instead of the numbers next to your decision.

The three things you can do here

Live training — play 2 to 9 handed against twelve AI profiles. Every time it is your turn you get equilibrium frequencies, the range grid, EV, win probability, MDF, SPR and a grade for the decision you make.
Hand review — enter a hand you played live (table size, positions, stacks, hole cards, everyone's actions) and each of your decisions is replayed against equilibrium and graded.
Online tables — one of you creates a table and gets a six-character code, the rest join with it. No sign-up, nothing to install.

They are three doors into the same feedback loop: make a decision, see what it cost, decide what to practise next.

What each panel answers

The panel is not decoration. Each number answers one specific question, and using the wrong one is how people conclude that the trainer is confusing:

Equilibrium frequencies — how often you should take each available action with this hand in this spot. 70% bet / 30% check means both actions are fine; what is not fine is never betting.
Range grid — the same information as a shape: which parts of your whole range do what. Read it for the boundary, not cell by cell.
EV — what each action is worth on average, in big blinds or in share of the pot. This is the number that decides arguments: it turns "I had a feeling" into "this call costs 0.8bb".
Win probability (equity) — how often your hand wins at showdown from here. Necessary for a call, and not sufficient on its own: a hand can have plenty of equity and still be a fold, because of what happens on later streets.
MDF (minimum defence frequency) — the share of your range you have to continue with so that an opponent cannot profit by bluffing any two cards. It is the anchor for "am I folding too much".
SPR (stack-to-pot ratio) — how deep the money is relative to the pot. Low SPR means commitment decisions (top pair is often enough); high SPR means your hand needs more ways to improve.

How the grade works, and how to not misread it

Each decision comes back as good, ok or bad, with the EV you left on the table. The grade is a diagnosis, not a verdict on you: one bad grade in a session of two hundred decisions is noise, and twenty bad grades of the same kind is a leak with a name.

The habit worth building is to read the grade together with the spot type. "I lost 1.4bb calling a river bet with a bluff-catcher" tells you what to search for in the next session. "I played badly" tells you nothing and is usually not even true.

A first week that actually works

Play twenty hands without touching the settings. Do not try to win; try to notice which panel you keep ignoring.
Open the help panel once and read the hand-data section — that is also where the opt-out switch lives.
Pick one decision type: preflop opens are the easiest to fix first, river calls the most expensive to get wrong.
Play another twenty hands looking only at that decision type. Ignore the rest of the session.
Write down the two worst grades and what you thought at the time. If you cannot say why the grade disagreed with you, that spot goes into the review page and you work it out there.
Repeat with the same decision type until it stops being interesting, then move to the next one.

Fifteen to thirty minutes at a time is enough, and it is better than a two-hour session once a week: what you are training is recognition, and recognition is built by repetition with feedback, not by duration.

Settings and your data

The interface comes in fourteen languages and adapts to your browser on the first visit. Your settings and your cumulative statistics live in your own browser's local storage — there is no account, so there is nothing to sign into, and moving to another device starts a fresh set of statistics.

One thing worth knowing on day one: each hand you play is collected to improve the trainer — table settings, hole cards, actions, community cards, the result and the decision scores, plus a randomly generated device id and your interface language. No name, no email, no location. There is an opt-out switch in the help panel, and the trainer behaves identically whether you use it or not. The details are in the privacy policy.

One hand, all the panels together

Abstract panel descriptions only go so far. Here is a single hand, described the way you will actually meet it — stack 100bb, you open from the cutoff, the button calls, everyone else folds.

Preflop. The frequencies tell you the open was standard, and the range grid shows you the shape of what you are representing: a wide but not capped range, since a premium hand would often have raised bigger. No grade drama here; this decision is the easy half of poker.

Flop, K-7-2 rainbow. You have the range advantage — the flop hits your opening range harder than a button calling range. The panel will usually show that a small bet with a large share of your range is right, and the reason is in the grid rather than in the frequency: you can bet many hands cheaply because your opponent has to respect the whole range. If you instead check your whole range here, the grade will be fine but the EV will quietly leak — this is a spot where "not a mistake" and "well played" are different things.

Turn, a blank. Now the panels start to disagree, and this is the part worth learning. Equity says you are ahead with top pair; MDF says you should continue with most of your range; EV says the difference between betting and checking is small. When the numbers point in different directions, the EV number is the one that settles it, and the others are how you understand why.

River, the draw misses. You face a bet. Now the arithmetic from the pot odds guide is the whole decision: what fraction of the pot you must call, what equity you need, and whether this opponent actually has enough bluffs for you to get there. The panel gives the equilibrium answer; the grade tells you what your answer cost.

The point of walking through it is this: no single number is the answer to a hand. Each one closes one door, and the last one standing is your decision.

Where to go next

If the numbers above are still abstract, read what GTO actually means and then the two arithmetic pieces — pot odds, equity and EV for calls, and bluffing frequencies and MDF for the decisions that feel the worst. Or just open the trainer and play twenty hands while the rest of it settles.